Dublin
June 10, 2008 by JasonHaving taken myself over to Dublin for the jBPM Community Day I had, of course, to spend some time exploring this great city. An early start saw me walking from my hotel into the north west corner of Phoenix Park (Ashtown Gate), the largest city park in Europe. My taxi driver of the night before had warned me about the craze for ‘power walking’ and yes, here were the female residents of Dublin walking aggressively in Nike in all directions.
Passing the Phoenix monument, entrance to the US embassy and Aras An Uachtarain, I passed by the Papal Cross, numerous tame deer and ended up at the Wellington Monument. Wellington was one of Dublin’s more famous sons. Arriving at Ireland’s Museum of Modern Art early, experiencing the quad of this former hospital alone, quiet and with the coolness of the morning air slowly making way for the heat of the day to take a hold, and with the murmur of the city only a block away, was special.
MMA do a great cooked breakfast between 10:30 and 11:30 and following a walk around MMA recently refurbished formal garden I headed past the station to the Collins Barracks. Here there is a new exhibition about the Irish at war. This celebrates the habit of Irishmen throughout the ages to fight in other country’s armies. Fontenoy, in which the Irish took the side of the French against the English and were the deciding factor in a famous victory, is still celebrated by Dublin street names.
Also here was a great exhibit exploring the Easter Uprising in April 1916 and is now interpreted as the ‘tipping point’ towards independence. The heroism of those intellectual young men who were subsequently executed left a large lump in my throat and the artifacts on display are really incredible and extend the story to the subsequent Civil War. Pistols used in assassinations, flags raised to celebrate the Republic, clothes warn by those assassinated / executed just makes you stand, reflect and take stock.
Remembrance of the struggle of the Irish for independence from the English is particularly poignant at this time since every lamp-post in Dublin is currently replete with posters urging the Irish to vote yes and no in a forthcoming referendum on the Irish constitution triggered by the European Lisbon Treaty.
I was learning about this part of Irish history for the very first time and wondered why this wasn’t a component of contemporary history education in the UK?
After the barracks I walked via the inner-city improvements made in the Smithfield area of the Jameson’s Distillery (found the square slightly Soviet-esque), through Temple Bar, to the National Museum of Ireland. The two most impressive exhibits featured items that emerge from Irish bogs: gold hoards and bog-men. Then around to the National Gallery. Here the painting of a British Dragoon strolling with his Irish wife and surrounded by an impromptu band of street kids (Military Manoeuvres, Richard Thomas Moynan), or the painting of a poacher shot and being cared for by his wife (The Wounded Poacher, Henry Jones Thaddeus), had the most resonance to me since they seemed to evoke a sense of Ireland in a way that the paintings by the masters upstairs could never do.



